Stepping into Tetetlán feels like discovering a treasure that few others know about. Perhaps it’s the sturdy stone wall facing the street, or the fact that the space is nestled among the imposing volcanic rocks that define this part of Mexico City, aptly called Jardines del Pedregal (Pedregal translates as “stony ground”). Or maybe it’s because there’s so much to explore inside: a restaurant, an art gallery, a boutique, a library, and a mindfulness center all coexist between the stones. And of course, there’s its famous next-door neighbor: Casa Pedregal, a stunning house designed by iconic Mexican architect Luis Barragán.

Tetetlán

Despite the many things going on in Tetetlán, the restaurant maintains a calm, inviting atmosphere. The walls are lined with artwork, and shelves filled with books infuse the air with creativity and inspiration – an energy that translates to the kitchen, too. Led by young chef Martín Miranda, the culinary offering showcases Mexico’s natural bounty in a menu focused on sustainability and traceability – with delicious results.

Tetetlán

During our morning visit, we start with a cup of strong coffee. Coffee lovers will be thrilled by the many preparation options available – French press, Chemex, V60 – as well as the rest of the extensive beverage list, including inventive cold brew creations such as a basil-infused version or the Izamal Cold Brew, made with refreshing horchata.

Tetetlán

As we explore the menu, Chef Martín tells us about the foundation upon which the kitchen is built: “The philosophy here is guided by seasonal, sustainable food prepared with local ingredients.” Over his two-year tenure at the restaurant, Martín has developed a network of suppliers, blending some of the vendors he knew from his previous venture – a dark kitchen he started during the pandemic – as well as new partners who provide the most delicious and planet-friendly dairy, vegetables, meats, and herbs. Current suppliers include regenerative farming project Arca Tierra, known for their work in the Xochimilco chinampas, and Jamat, which provides sustainably caught fish and seafood.

Tetetlán

A glimpse at the menu shows the exciting array of ingredients the kitchen team can play around with – something Martín is very proud of. “Ingredients allow us to get creative, and to give customers new reasons to keep coming back,” he says. We spot a tempting matcha French toast with berries but opt for the grilled cheese cooked in a stone oven and the Alfonsina tlayuda, a spectacular tribute to the beloved Oaxaca City restaurant of the same name: a large crispy tortilla topped with beans, longaniza, tasajo (salted dried beef), chapulines (grasshoppers), mole, nopales (prickly pear cactus), and cheese. There’s another promising tlayuda named after Arca Tierra, featuring fresh-from-the-chinampa vegetables, but the generous portions our next-table neighbors are enjoying hint that two dishes might be enough.

We crown our morning with a second cup of coffee and a fluffy pain au chocolat, one of the many baked delights made in-house every day, as Martín wraps up our conversation to get back to his team. These days, he’s happy to share that the kitchen flows at a pleasant rhythm. Most of all, “I’ve tried to change the way we work,” he says. “I want us to have better hours and allow everyone to be creative.” He describes his workplace as “a joyful kitchen,” where every team member can trust each other.

Tetetlán

Time seems to pass at a slower pace in Tetetlán. After breakfast, we stroll around the art gallery and check out the boutique’s charming selection of Mexican design pieces until we realize it’s time for our tour of Casa Pedregal. Built in 1949, the house is a gorgeous example of Luis Barragán’s innovative architecture. High ceilings and plenty of natural light create a feeling of serenity, while modern Mexican interior decor brings coziness and sophistication. Outside, we step onto a rugged garden composed of volcanic stones. Our guide tells us that it was covered for a while – during previous ownership – but it has now been restored to its original state to honor Barragán’s vision: a corner of raw beauty, designed for calm and contemplation.

Tetetlán

On this slightly rainy yet beautiful day, the garden reminds us, once more, why we came here. Tetetlán might ask for a longer commute, especially for those of us who live in the city’s central neighborhoods, but it’s during these trips outside the bubble that we find some of Mexico City’s most brilliant gems.

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Cristina AlonsoAndrew Reiner

Published on July 30, 2025

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